As white as Auli

Auli

It's a ride through the mountains from Rishikesh to Auli, with the Ganges running beside throughout the way. A drive amidst the purest air, the sound of nature and the vast blue sky far from our city devoid of these very elements. There is a restriction on driving past 7pm hence you are bound to take fewer breaks but the beautiful sights are worth spending time. We started around 8am.

On the way

Our first stop was ASA beach, the starting point for another rafting expedition. A suspension bridge leads to another village perhaps. Stairs at the start of the bridge lead to a flatbed of white sand ashore Ganga surrounded on three sides by the mountain wall. The place was secluded when we reached thus making for memorable pics. There are camping resorts on the river bed, but due to mishaps camping was banned in 2016. After another stop at a beautiful location the-name-of-which-I-do-not-know, we reached Devprayag and witnessed, from the hilltop, the confluence of Bhagirathi and Alaknanda tributaries to form Ganga. One of the two is coloured emerald green. I almost had the urge to climb down and halt in this holy town for the rest of the day. However, we resumed the journey.

ASA beach

The Road

Srinagar is another important city, home to a few prominent universities. Several places buried during the floods of 2013, yet to be excavated. On route, some parts of the road are marked by landslides and one particular turn is known to be hit by a cloud burst, the recovery was still in process. I recommend travelling with a light stomach as the altitude increases gradually and the road is curvy. A long ride in the mountains could make you nauseous. Thankfully, the Ganges, which was now in the form of Alaknanda, comes to your rescue to soothe your eyes and brings tranquillity to your mind to clear fretful thoughts. We reached Joshimath by 4:30pm and our pre-booked homestay 'The Himalayan Abode' in another 20 minutes. It was named aptly so, for we could see the Himalayan peaks from the balcony. The temperature had dropped drastically. The view from the room also consisted of the mountain across the valley with a cave, a waterfall and the winding road leading to Badrinath. Food was arranged and we rested as another adventurous day lay ahead of us.

Skiing

Visiting Auli was the most-awaited part of the trip. Though there are hotels in Auli, we decided to lodge at Joshimath as there were quite a few places at short distances from Joshimath to visit if time permitted. Auli is a 10km ride by road from here and about 3000m higher above the altitude. In the morning, we took our first-ever cable car ride. The tickets are expensive, a single ticket costs as much as a bus journey from Haridwar to Joshimath, and it is time-bound. To add to our expenses, our cab driver informed that he couldn't take us up to Auli by car, due to (unbeknown) restrictions, so we had to use the ropeway even on the second day. Higher up the ride, the coniferous trees increased in numbers and the excitement grew as snow appeared around them. It starts snowing late in the month of December and deposits further through January. We went in early Feb when it starts getting warm yet there is enough snow to go skiing. We had booked classes, in advance, with the ski school. Ski boards and boots are provided. We need to make own arrangements for snow-proof clothes and gloves. Snow-proof pants are available for rent in Joshimath at the cable car booking stall. Day 1 of skiing consists only moving forward and falling the right way. Incorrect moves may lead to serious injuries. If followed correctly, even falling down can be fun due to the soft landing. However, only after going back to the room did we realise that we were bruised blue due to falling again and again. The skiing improved on Day 2. You are allowed to ski down the slope and we took our 1-minute videos to show-off ;) The snow started melting soon and we had to stop.

Hiking etc.

Someone suggested Gorson trek as we had a couple of hours before return. We changed to hiking shoes and sticks (on rent!) and followed a couple with a guide. There is no trail but not too easy to get lost. Initially, it felt like 'Ghazab ka yeh din' from QSQT, walking in the snow beneath the canopy of tall trees. When we had taken enough pics and the end didn't seem near, it only felt like the long Dothraki-march in quest of the Iron Throne. Nevertheless, we did complete our trek to obtain 360 deg views of the Himalayan ranges and head back in time. Other snow activities offered in Auli are snowboarding and sledging. Of course, you can also play dodge-ball and build snowman especially if you have come with kids. If you plan a trip to Auli, carry along with these must-haves:

• Sunscreen cream. The colder temperatures might make you feel all right but only later you realise how much tanned and dehydrated you are.

• Water bottle

• Cotton balls or earmuffs just in case. 

• Warm clothes. Wear thermals inside to keep warm.

Gorson peak

Nearby places

We spent some time in Joshimath, visited the Shankaracharaya math and the cave he meditated in during his visit. Went to a few temples including the Narasimha temple where the priests of Badrinath worship during winter months when the road to Badrinath is closed. Other places of interest are Tapovan, Pandukeshwar, the Nanda Devi National Park and Chopta valley. Even the starting point of the trek to the Valley of flowers and Hemakund Sahib can be reached within 20kms from Joshimath. Although, the actual treks will take about a week or more.

We left from Auli sooner in the day to avoid staying overnight. We had to reach Dehra by 5pm next evening to catch the flight back to Bangalore. We lodged at a hotel in Srinagar. Next day we had ample time to cover the remaining distance. We visited the Neelkanth Mahadev Temple when approaching  Rishikesh, for Lord Shiva's blessings. We literally had to raise a complaint against the driver to take us here. This was the only crowded temple in our journey which was still a comparatively smaller gathering of devotees, perhaps, because it was an off-season for holy yatras.

Back in Rishikesh we strolled the streets again, me hoping for some quality-time conversations with my husband, during the walk, which would be interrupted by incessant phone calls concerning his work and a monkey that pounced in front of us to snatch the papads I was holding. Gladly, there was an unspoken consensus on the choice of our vacation as we ventured to come here without much guidance except Google. After having authentic local cuisine for lunch at the Chotiwala, we left for Dehradun airport. Our trials didn't end there as another mishap awaited us in the form of a delayed flight. But that's another story. This remains the most beautiful and adventuresome vacation we had as a couple and a benchmark for the many more to come ahead. If you think the Alps are the only way to quench your thirst for snow and skiing, I hope this blog post makes you reconsider.

"Once the mountains are in your blood, there is no escape. You have to come back again and again"

- Rain in the mountains, Ruskin Bond

Tinkle and Turquoise

A view of river Ganga in Rishikesh

Some travel decisions are unplanned and yet bring the most pleasant experiences. When started planning, Rishikesh was only meant as a respite on the long road-trip to Auli. I googled Rishikesh only because we had an extra day to spare on our 6-days vacation, only to discover that it was a Pandora's box!! We chose the fastest way to reach here from Bangalore: by flight to Dehradun. Set out early morning to Rishikesh from Dehra in a hired cab which I had booked online.

The Jhulas

We reached Rishikesh pretty early and decided to take a walk down the lanes. A hired guide led the path to Ram jhula and Laxman jhula. One connects two Ashrams and the other connects two districts. He explained the history of the two suspension bridges and suggested shops for inexpensive winter-wear clothes. Every nook and corner has a temple. We visited a few on the way to the jhulas. The Ganges looked vast and serene from atop the Laxman jhula. Experience the freshest air and the sound of peace amidst the mild chimes of passing mule bells and the distant tinkles of temple bells. It so happens that lord Laxmana did penance to lord Vishnu after the slaying of Ravana. The Laxman temple where he meditated was renovated when Adi Shankaracharaya visited Rishikesh in the 9th century. Walking the 2km distance from one jhula to the other, we passed by several ashrams each inhabited by a Rushi. We also got to learn about the semi-precious stones rudrakshis and sphatik. I was taken back to school days of science experiments when the shop owner showed how friction between two similar coloured stones ignites a spark of the same colour!

River rafting

After checking-in to our hotel and freshening, we started for the first adventure activity. It was a 16 km long rafting distance from Shivpuri to Laxman jhula. We met our teammates, some from our city Bengaluru and a few girls from Nagaland. The guide was a petite man with a large spirit. He must have been pissed off by our brothers and sisters working in IT so he had warned, "agar yahan pe koi engineer hai, to apna dimag mat chalana". He asked to act as instructed. There were very few instructions like 'forward', 'stop', 'backward' and 'get down'. Now 'get down' certainly doesn't mean to get out of your place from the edge of the tube and jump into the river, but it means to duck and sit on the floor of the raft, to protect ourselves from the crashing waves. We had our share of exhilarating moments during the rapids when the waves went higher and lower with the Ganges showering upon us. Swami and Guru, as were heavily built compared to the rest of us, led us from the front. Swami lost nerves and why not, he had to face the roaring waves first. Promptly the guide kept reviving his confidence. And then we felt the tranquility during the 'stop' moments, when we didn't have to steer but just sit and get carried along the calmer waters amidst the towering mountains on either side of the river. I felt like I was amongst the 'Fellowship of the Ring' that travelled in the serene blue waters of River Anduin just before the fellowship was broken. 

At the cliff-jumping spot

Looking at the colour, one realises why the river-rafting here is also called as white-water rafting. The sand and stones are all white! I suppose that the river reflects this and the green of the mountains to form a light turquoise. Though from Haridwar onwards the river gets polluted, it stays real clean at Rishikesh. At some point, we were allowed to float so some of us got down into the river and did some body surfing in obedience to instructions. The guide informed us that he visits Coorg in the month of October to conduct rafting in the rivers Kaveri and Barappole so next time we could go rafting closer home :)

Cliff jumping

We had a chai-break during river rafting. There was one spot from where cliff jumping was allowed and some of us gave a try. Though from down below from our raft it appeared an achievable feat, I had second thoughts when on the edge of the cliff. Even when people around you are giving words of encouragement and advice, you hear nothing but your own heart beating faster and louder than drums. If you jump sooner, you fear for lesser time. Once you take the jump, the splash-contact creates a split-second of void and then you feel nothing but AWESOMENESS! The life jacket helps keep afloat. After this stunt, being drenched and exhausted, the adrak chai and maggi are too good to skip. Well, you also need some calories to row for the rest of the rafting distance.

Other activities

Apart from river-rafting and cliff-jumping, there are numerous adventure and fun activities that Rishikesh offers. All kinds of bikes are available on rent. Last minute accommodations may be hard to find in the months of May to October due to Badrinath yatra. Plan your vacation well in advance. Our first choice to spend the day was a hot-air ballooning ride at Air Safari Rishikesh which was closed when we arrived at the location. When there was no response from the contact number, we went for plan-B of river-rafting. Regardless, after the rafting adventure, we had forgotten all about plan-A.

Aarti at Triveni Ghat

Triveni Ghat

So it happens that the motley group of 'Swami and his friends' had completed their first ever rafting experience. We took pics and bid adieu. A quick stop at our hotel for change of clothes and gobbling of yummy, hot food. We headed to Triveni Ghat on the shores of the river where the Ganga Aarti is performed by priests every evening at sunset, in a coordinated ritual, with bells ringing and drums beating in the background. This divine act is a sight to see. I instantly developed admiration of their devotion towards this river goddess, the kind of devotion which made them perform this grand prayer day after day with same gusto. You are allowed to offer only flowers and camphor diyas on dry leaf bowls to the holy Ganges. We relaxed on the steps listening to the soulful bhajans. 

Food and Yoga

It is said that only vegetarian food is available in Rishikesh. The jeera rice-dal tadka served at our hotel was too hot and deliciously zesty  for the cold weather. The Chotiwala offers some continental. Makkai-roti and sarson da saag offered here is flavoursome. Butter-milk is also available. We didn't get butter milk elsewhere on the journey. Curd was rarely available. We also saw some dosa stalls during our post-dinner walk in one of the steep lanes. There are several vegan bakeries too which have mostly foreign customers who come to Rishikesh for ayurvedic therapy and healing through Yoga and other spiritual exercises. Rishikesh is the Yoga capital of the world. It attracts people from all over the world. In fact, each hotel offers Yoga classes here. Even the Beatles visited Rishikesh once and the Ashram that they stayed in acquired their name.

We came to love this city in such a short time that we had to stop here even on our way back. Next morning we left early from Rishikesh to Auli. The cab driver had planned some sight-seeing stops for us on the way.  Please read 'As white as Auli' to know my account of the rest of the journey, a trip to a snow-capped hill station in the foot of the Himalayas.