As white as Auli

Auli

It's a ride through the mountains from Rishikesh to Auli, with the Ganges running beside throughout the way. A drive amidst the purest air, the sound of nature and the vast blue sky far from our city devoid of these very elements. There is a restriction on driving past 7pm hence you are bound to take fewer breaks but the beautiful sights are worth spending time. We started around 8am.

On the way

Our first stop was ASA beach, the starting point for another rafting expedition. A suspension bridge leads to another village perhaps. Stairs at the start of the bridge lead to a flatbed of white sand ashore Ganga surrounded on three sides by the mountain wall. The place was secluded when we reached thus making for memorable pics. There are camping resorts on the river bed, but due to mishaps camping was banned in 2016. After another stop at a beautiful location the-name-of-which-I-do-not-know, we reached Devprayag and witnessed, from the hilltop, the confluence of Bhagirathi and Alaknanda tributaries to form Ganga. One of the two is coloured emerald green. I almost had the urge to climb down and halt in this holy town for the rest of the day. However, we resumed the journey.

ASA beach

The Road

Srinagar is another important city, home to a few prominent universities. Several places buried during the floods of 2013, yet to be excavated. On route, some parts of the road are marked by landslides and one particular turn is known to be hit by a cloud burst, the recovery was still in process. I recommend travelling with a light stomach as the altitude increases gradually and the road is curvy. A long ride in the mountains could make you nauseous. Thankfully, the Ganges, which was now in the form of Alaknanda, comes to your rescue to soothe your eyes and brings tranquillity to your mind to clear fretful thoughts. We reached Joshimath by 4:30pm and our pre-booked homestay 'The Himalayan Abode' in another 20 minutes. It was named aptly so, for we could see the Himalayan peaks from the balcony. The temperature had dropped drastically. The view from the room also consisted of the mountain across the valley with a cave, a waterfall and the winding road leading to Badrinath. Food was arranged and we rested as another adventurous day lay ahead of us.

Skiing

Visiting Auli was the most-awaited part of the trip. Though there are hotels in Auli, we decided to lodge at Joshimath as there were quite a few places at short distances from Joshimath to visit if time permitted. Auli is a 10km ride by road from here and about 3000m higher above the altitude. In the morning, we took our first-ever cable car ride. The tickets are expensive, a single ticket costs as much as a bus journey from Haridwar to Joshimath, and it is time-bound. To add to our expenses, our cab driver informed that he couldn't take us up to Auli by car, due to (unbeknown) restrictions, so we had to use the ropeway even on the second day. Higher up the ride, the coniferous trees increased in numbers and the excitement grew as snow appeared around them. It starts snowing late in the month of December and deposits further through January. We went in early Feb when it starts getting warm yet there is enough snow to go skiing. We had booked classes, in advance, with the ski school. Ski boards and boots are provided. We need to make own arrangements for snow-proof clothes and gloves. Snow-proof pants are available for rent in Joshimath at the cable car booking stall. Day 1 of skiing consists only moving forward and falling the right way. Incorrect moves may lead to serious injuries. If followed correctly, even falling down can be fun due to the soft landing. However, only after going back to the room did we realise that we were bruised blue due to falling again and again. The skiing improved on Day 2. You are allowed to ski down the slope and we took our 1-minute videos to show-off ;) The snow started melting soon and we had to stop.

Hiking etc.

Someone suggested Gorson trek as we had a couple of hours before return. We changed to hiking shoes and sticks (on rent!) and followed a couple with a guide. There is no trail but not too easy to get lost. Initially, it felt like 'Ghazab ka yeh din' from QSQT, walking in the snow beneath the canopy of tall trees. When we had taken enough pics and the end didn't seem near, it only felt like the long Dothraki-march in quest of the Iron Throne. Nevertheless, we did complete our trek to obtain 360 deg views of the Himalayan ranges and head back in time. Other snow activities offered in Auli are snowboarding and sledging. Of course, you can also play dodge-ball and build snowman especially if you have come with kids. If you plan a trip to Auli, carry along with these must-haves:

• Sunscreen cream. The colder temperatures might make you feel all right but only later you realise how much tanned and dehydrated you are.

• Water bottle

• Cotton balls or earmuffs just in case. 

• Warm clothes. Wear thermals inside to keep warm.

Gorson peak

Nearby places

We spent some time in Joshimath, visited the Shankaracharaya math and the cave he meditated in during his visit. Went to a few temples including the Narasimha temple where the priests of Badrinath worship during winter months when the road to Badrinath is closed. Other places of interest are Tapovan, Pandukeshwar, the Nanda Devi National Park and Chopta valley. Even the starting point of the trek to the Valley of flowers and Hemakund Sahib can be reached within 20kms from Joshimath. Although, the actual treks will take about a week or more.

We left from Auli sooner in the day to avoid staying overnight. We had to reach Dehra by 5pm next evening to catch the flight back to Bangalore. We lodged at a hotel in Srinagar. Next day we had ample time to cover the remaining distance. We visited the Neelkanth Mahadev Temple when approaching  Rishikesh, for Lord Shiva's blessings. We literally had to raise a complaint against the driver to take us here. This was the only crowded temple in our journey which was still a comparatively smaller gathering of devotees, perhaps, because it was an off-season for holy yatras.

Back in Rishikesh we strolled the streets again, me hoping for some quality-time conversations with my husband, during the walk, which would be interrupted by incessant phone calls concerning his work and a monkey that pounced in front of us to snatch the papads I was holding. Gladly, there was an unspoken consensus on the choice of our vacation as we ventured to come here without much guidance except Google. After having authentic local cuisine for lunch at the Chotiwala, we left for Dehradun airport. Our trials didn't end there as another mishap awaited us in the form of a delayed flight. But that's another story. This remains the most beautiful and adventuresome vacation we had as a couple and a benchmark for the many more to come ahead. If you think the Alps are the only way to quench your thirst for snow and skiing, I hope this blog post makes you reconsider.

"Once the mountains are in your blood, there is no escape. You have to come back again and again"

- Rain in the mountains, Ruskin Bond